Jewelry & Watchmaking

Watches & Wonders: Arceau Cheval Cosmique by Hermès

Apr 28, 2020 | Parisian Eye

Produced in two limited series of 24 each, the Arceau Cheval Cosmique watch offers a dial adorned with the silhouette of a horse and waves in engraved gold. Both elements are set against an aventurine or mother-of- pearl and enamel background, and paired with an abyss blue or Chantilly alligator strap.

The Arceau watch designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978 lends its sober yet singular allure to a new expression of Hermès creativity and expertise. Imagined by artist Gianpaolo Pagni, the “Cheval Cosmique” composition combines graphic undulations with the silhouette of a horse from Émile Hermès’ private collection. This singular interpretation is transposed here in relief, on a dial in aventurine or mother-of-pearl and enamel: a splendid trotting horse and a wavy motif handengraved in white gold.

To create just one example of this miniature artwork, the artisan works for almost a week on a gold plate less than half a centimetre thick. First, by engraving the waves and accentuating them with a fine black lacquer; and then, by fixing this engraving in place on the dial before covering the surrounding area with aventurine or enamel and mother-of-pearl. Finally, the beautifully engraved horse is put in place, setting the perfect final touch to this creation.

The white gold series displays its equestrian motif at the heart of a dial featuring deep shades of aventurine enhanced by an abyss – blue alligator strap. The second, in white gold set with diamonds, frames a luminous dial in mother-of-pearl and enamel, highlighted by a Chantilly alligator strap. The new Arceau with its hours and minutes display is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement which, like the dial, case and bracelet, is developed in the Hermès Horloger workshops.

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